Journey from Galway to Killarney

After another good healthy breakfast at our funky 'G' Hotel and a bunch of tips from our Concierge we left Galway armed with maps and prayers for sun today.   The maps were helpful but the sun part didn't work out for us.  In truth it was a windy rather blustery day and the sun saved Herself until the end of day to peak out and tease us a wee bit.

Our goal was the Cliffs of Moher in county Clare which comes with the reputation of unique beauty.    Of course as most know the beauty and colors when driving along the ocean are always impacted by the presence of the sun.  The drive was beautiful, the villages were quaint and lovely and the green...green...green everywhere  but the sun was just not there.   Nevertheless, it was a lovely drive and we enjoyed every minute of it.   Well, I should say I did, John was a bit white knuckled at times with the narrow roads, but being the trooper he is, he mustered on heaving a sigh of relief when we arrived at our destination this evening.

Anyone reading this blog has come to know that for us the travel is a lot about the sights, the history, the culture, the food  and also a lot about the people we meet along the way.   In the end that is always what it is all about isn't it?   Today we stumbled on a lovely country inn on the road on the way to the cliffs.   Truth is it looked enticing, had a restaurant and I needed a bathroom so we turned in.   Oh my goodness, we just wanted to unpack the car and stay there!   It was outside the town of Ballyvaughan and sat alone on a beautiful slope overlooking the valley and ultimately the sea on a clear day.   It was like being in a rain forest or  a tropical spot of some sort with all of the flowers and lush greens.   We wandered in and the inside was as lovely and charming as it appeared on the outside.   Of course it was almost lunch time on a Sunday so very quiet but we went into their little sitting room/bar and ordered Tea & Scones while I hit the restroom.   Well, this developed into about an hour unplanned stay!   I began visiting with the Inn Keeper and John with a couple who were guests just enjoying relaxing in the sitting room.  They asked to join them and we had the best visit with Pat and Fiona.   Oh my gosh it was just a delight!   We suspect we will not be back here but for anyone reading this who may be, consider going to Gregan's Castle Hotel.  You will not be disappointed.  Actually, I wonder if I could get a job going around and checking these places out for others?  Hmmm.

So on the road again we enjoyed the drive getting to the Cliffs but as I mentioned it was so cold and blustery and quite a walk from the parking we opted not climb up.  We would have enjoyed the climb just not the winds especially when we knew the visibility was not good.

As we continued on towards our destination we couldn't help but remark on the number of B & B's we passed.  They come in every size and color and good/bad.  It was amazing really.    We also found a scene along the cliffs that really tickled us.  In this area they have what they call Pitch and Putts, some being a full 18 hole course and all holes being about 75-80 yards long.  As we came through the cliffs area with the wind blowing like crazy, very cool and occasional rain there was all kinds of hardy folks on these courses.  At first we just assumed it was kids but not so, we saw many very mature or even gray guys out there, some with ski hats!   Me, not a golfer just thought 'brrr', but John was trying to figure out how they could hit the ball even remotely straight in the wind that we had.   I guess you had to be there but it really was quite astounding.

After a short pit stop for dinner along the way we arrived in Killarney.  I just love that name!   We had reservations but it took some time to find the hotel in the multiple block 'Towne Center' which was the address we had.  Our new and trusty (?) Tom Tom had no clue so we drove up one side and down the other looking.  Finally, I saw a cute red haired young man (I'm a little prejudice) about to cross the street and rolling my window down asked if he could help.   He stressed a bit to explain, and in fact had a stutter so it was difficult, but he helped us get in the right direction.   As we drove away with great "Thanks", he called out "Yah and God Bless!"    Oh my gosh....it really IS all about the people!  We did get in almost the right spot but had to ask someone along the way one more time for that final push.   Never a hesitation or irritation with these wonderful Irish people.   Amazing!

We arrived at our hotel The Ross Hotel, and once again it is ultra modern decor, but not the crazy in your face style of The 'G' in Galway.   And the setting this time is right in the heart of the village where everything is 'happening'.   Funny though....in Galway our view looked out at Woodies and now we look down at the little cemetary by the church here in the village  Just kinda made me chuckle....Woodies or the cemetery?

Our goal in this area was to travel the famous Ring of Kerry.   We had started to hear from the local people and those in the industry that this area is so over traveled with tourist buses that it is very difficult.  It is really beautiful but they all seemed to want to warn us of this challenge.  When we got here this evening I was visiting with our front desk/Concierge and she went over two other options here for us, one we were aware of and another that was new.  She didn't try to influence us but rather inform us.   She also mentioned the option of a driver for the day because the roads are very narrow and can be harrowing.  I gathered all the information and reported it to 'my' driver.   I think the only decision we had to make was which spot we would see because the idea of a driver to let him relax and enjoy the scenery was a wonderful idea to John.
And so, after looking at pictures and weighing all the variables as best we could we decided on the Dingle Peninsula which is a bit north and of course west of Killarney.  This area also came with a big reputation and will be traveled but less so than Ring of Kerry.   And so we called down to the sweet girl that was helping us and she arranged for our driver, who she said will be very entertaining, and we will be picked up at 10:00 tomorrow morning right after breakfast.

And so we sign off this evening with excitement and a predication of sun tomorrow as we listen to rabble rousing and singing from the Pubs down the street.

Cannemara on the West Coast of Ireland

First off we had a real Irish breakfast, The bacon includes the pork belly plus what looked Canadian bacon attached. Very tasty. Got some good tips from the concierge, climbed into the Mercedes and headed out - destination Clifden and the rugged Irish west coast.

Now we have heard of white knuckled driving, but picture two lanes with no shoulder on either side only about 6 inches bigger than your car for your lane and a friggin tour bus coming the other way. The fact of right hand drive versus left hand drive was not really important. Anyway, some how we muddled through.

Once we arrived at Clifden, a very interesting and picturesque town,we stopped for a cold one and bit of seafood chowder for me. below are some photos from our travels around Clifden.

We spoke to a couple bicyclists and got the 411 on a shortcut to the Sky Road. Exciting drive - pictures follow.

From Sky Drive, we head north on the coastal road toward the Kylemore Abbey. This is a fabulous place, began as a rich merchant's present to his wife in the late 1800's. It is a 16,000 acre estate with a castle and a walled Victorian garden. After twenty years or do, she died tragically at age 45, leaving him and 9 kids. Despondent, he sold the place to a Cincinnati mogul who bought it as a wedding present for his daughter. Unfortunately, her new husband, the duke of something, lost it in a poker game. Eventually, it was purchased by the Benedictine Nuns in 1922 and became a high end girl's boarding school. The nuns no longer run a school but still live there, The pictures will describe this jewel better than I ever could.

What a glorious garden - flowers, vegetables, herbs, ferns, even green houses to grow bananas!

Now I have not mentioned it, but there are sheep in every field in this part of Ireland. As we continue around the coast road making the loop to head back to Galway, we came across some sheep that were not in the field. In fact they were on the road (and a few thought they owned the road). We stopped to take a picture of this tough looking chap and he immediately started heading toward us bleating loudly. Carol was talking back at him but he kept coming. After a few quick snap shots, we decided we should just get back in the car. Please note the paint splotches on this bugger. This passes for a brand in these parts and we saw many colors and combinations of red, green, and blue.

Feeling like we had a really full and fun day.

Moving West

Finally we got a good uninterrupted nights sleep last night and got up at a 'reasonable' hour ready to pack and hit the road for the first time since we arrived in Ireland.  The morning started with a walk to the end of the village where we enjoyed a great Irish breakfast.  I will say we skipped the Black Pudding.  My Dad used to eat that under another name, Blood Sausage, and I remember my Mom cooking it for him and deciding then it was not for me.   I maintain that position!   The walk, the breakfast and the tea were delightful and prepared us to hit the 'wrong' side of the road.   Our Tom Tom was charged and prepared to show us the way from the East to the West, we had reservations in Galway and were ready to go.    

The drive was beautifully green and pastoral, however not the dramatic scenes I expected but of course we were driving cross country and not along the coastline.   That was fine we are patient but no worries we did have our excitement!   John began to get his 'sea legs' on the Motorway and you could hardly tell he was not accustomed to driving on 'this' side of the road.  Our Tom Tom beeped madly at random moments and we realized it was signaling speed cameras!  These on what we would call our Interstates.  The Tom Tom actually has an icon to invite you to add any cameras discovered they may be unaware of.  We found this humorous but not nearly as funny as our petro stop.   It was Paris revisited!   Again, we are driving an exchanger's Mercedes and as we prepared to stop John commented he hoped he didn't have problems opening the gas cap as we had in France.  Well, of course it was self fulfilled prophesy!   We stopped, I headed to the bathroom only to return to find John with his nose in the owners manual.  I soon joined him to no avail.  My normal reaction, and never John's, is to simply get out of the car and ask some young man!   The young man walked over, pressed on one side of the gas cover good and hard and it popped right open.  You had to be there I guess but it was funny and actually John took it very well.  Age does that for you.  After shelling out E77 for 48 liters of gas (@$100)we were back on the road.

We continued on our journey across the country just enjoying the pastures, cows and sheep nothing to astounding and then to break our drive along came a car towing (in Ireland clamped)another car.  Not so very unusual except it was towing the 2nd car with a nylon rope.   No kidding!   That entertained us for sure and caused us to catch our breathe I might add.

We were nearing Galway and looking to find the hotel where we had made reservations and suddenly Tom Tom stopped talking.  Are you kidding me?   Now when we are coming into a city we have no clue being faced with one roundabout after another?  The battery was already dead and of course the lighter socket was fried so what the heck?  John had a brilliant idea and pulled over got out the computer, propped it next to the shift and plugged in Tom Tom.    Didn't work...dead again and just as we are once again big eyed in wonder of what to do Irish music began to blast in the car and we cannot figure out where it is coming from.  Finally, we realized the computer had pressed against a radio button of some sort thus our unplanned concert. 

With Tom Tom once again dead, we were left to rely on signs with all these roundabouts.  Knowing this wasn't going to make it we pulled into a parking lot and called our hotel for directions.  I just love to hear how other cultures and languages describe things and today was no different.   It may be English but in so many ways it is so very different.  So the young woman started by telling us to get on the '"dual carriage roadway".  Ok after some thought it might make sense she meant a two way road but it took us a moments to figure it out.

And so we landed at the 'G Hotel', rated very highly by Frommer (our travel Bible) and Trip Advisor.  I am picturing something elegant yet picturesque within walking distance of lots of cool things.  When John pointed to the building and said "That is the G".....I said "No it isn't"   He said "Yes".....I said "No."    Guess who won?   Yep John was right.  We were in the middle of a shopping mall and movie complex!   Seriously!  Great if you want to grab a show and a room.  Right on the  motorway, decorated in disco bright Pinks and Purples and very modern posh.   The best was when we got to our room and our big windows open to Woodies.  Yes, Woodies is Ireland's answer to Home Depot.  You just have to love it.   On the upside we have a lovely room and great bed which we will both enjoy.

I had not been feeling well all day so we decided to just go down to one of the 'neon' lounges and have something to drink and a light bite.  It was entertaining for sure.   Seems it is the place for the young and beautiful.  We lucked out to become the center of a 'hen' party and I found out what it must be like when I get together with 20 of my best friends in a bar.  Enough so our server asked if we would like to move to 'another lounge' and we took him up on that. 

I'll end today with a conversation with a painter in the parking ramp.  Yes, we have conversations with everyone everywhere!  I had shared with John that I wanted to go somewhere while on this trip to year traditional Irish Storytelling.   So as we got our luggage out these two guys greeted us and John decided they may be our source.   Out of the blue after a simple greeting 'nice day' and all that, John asked if they knew a good place to go for good Irish storytelling.  You had to know the response and please add a good rich accent....the guy didn't miss a beat and responded laughing....."You get Irish storytelling in every pub....they are all lies!"

Looking for beautiful sights in the morning.

Ireland June 26 & 27 2013

Thursday, June 27th Sandycove County Dublin

After a couple of days of adventures I felt I should catch up before we get to far behind.   On the housekeeping side we have mastered the washer and dryer!   I know that seems a small thing but for those that remember our stories of Norway with a half of dozen Norwegian women at our home exchange home.  Neighbors rallied round to help us and there we were with  a bunch of Norwegian women in our tiny laundry area all speaking Norwegian chattering away trying to explain how to run the machines, or the guy at Mr Bubble in Salzburg trying to explain the wash cycles and the money needed to run the darn things, and although I can't remember the specifics of the laundry in Paris caper I'm sure there was one.   So this time, all was in English and nothing fancy so we breezed right through. Small victories!

That brings the whole concept of Home Exchange to mind.   As I mentioned before it is not for the faint hearted.    Normally when we travel there is a housekeeper, bell man, engineer and front desk at the touch of a dial.   Not so with a home exchange.   Invariably there are no hangers or very few and no one to call to deliver.   Linens can be a challenge as in this trip.   Of course there is the different appliances and life styles represented.  This represents some of the learning curve of course and then there is shopping, public transportation and automobile.   That brings me to today's adventure.

Our intent was to go south to Wicklow which would give us a chance to test our sea legs in the car and of course the driving from the wrong side of the car on the wrong side of the road!   Our home hostess neglected to notify me she had not secured a GPS for us and that they use their phones.   So we found ourselves clueless of where to go and using our phones would cost a small fortune in roaming charges.   So when there is a question simply head to the nearest Pub which in our case is only about 50 yards away.   The young man at Fitzpatrick's was happy to draw us a little map and said its just so simple and easy "you could walk if you wish it would only take a couple of minutes."   Having observed the Irish in the past two days and the pace of their walking, we decided we would drive it.   We left with a vague map and directions such as "when you get to O'Rooney's pub bear left keep the petrol station on your right...go to the roundabout and take the third exit toward Sallynoggin.....(you get the drift)"  And so we gingerly got into the car (on the wrong sides), held our breath and off we went....sort of.    I telling John he was way to far to the left (my side)and was going to brush a light pole!   The streets in this area are as narrow, as many we have experienced in other countries, but this 'opposite' driving makes it more of a challenge.   And to complicate there is generally parking on one side so when you meet someone (which is constant)one of you must wait for the other to come through.  Well it may come as no surprise that we got lost straight away (picking up the lingo).  The only way out was to head back toward the water and then to Dalkay the next little village.  

The next chapter was lunch at Finnegan's Pub which had come with high recommendations prior to our trip and then we learned this is where Michele Obama and the girls lunched with Bano about a week ago.   The pub was lovely and the folks both at the pub and the community were so excited to have been the choice for their visit.   Turns out Bano lives right in this village and is around where we are staying all the time.   No one here thinks it is a big deal.  I'd love to meet him though!

After a late lunch at Finnegan's and some great conversations we headed out with a new set of directions to Sallynoggin to buy our GPS.   John with white knuckles and me in a bit of sweat.   We made it, yes we went directly there and scored a Tom Tom to go!    With a job well done we headed to the car, pulled out the cigarette lighter and plugged our new TT in and nothing.  No amount of jiggling would convince it to work so, spotting the gentlemen who had helped us I called out "Sir...sir" and he spotting a old lady (me) in distress came right over.  He saw quickly we had a broken socket.   Looking at each other with huge eyes John and I felt 'we are doomed'.  We were rescued, however, the gentlemen took us into the store to charge it enough to get us home and then set us up with a charger for our house.    Whew...now it was only to find a parking spot back in front of our house which only required John to drive up on the sidewalk once (not uncommon here).   Any thought of more 'entertainment' for the day was out of the question.  Instead we set about looking at more plans and reservations that needed to be made for a week from now when we head for Scotland as well as packing to head west tomorrow.

Well enough about the housekeeping side of the trip.   Yesterday was a great day which we spent in Dublin city.  We have a train station within 10 minutes (our walking speed)from our house so we jumped on that and in a short time were downtown.  Because we tend to get a late start here we really needed to find a place for lunch before much touring.   As we headed down a main street (not sure the name)looking for the perfect spot we were stopped by a young man who encouraged us to go to his place.  Normally we don't do that but it was only a few yards away so we thought we would take a look.  What a delightful lunch!  We went for the gusto with Irish Cottage Pie and Irish Stew and a pint and glass (not Guinness I'm afraid).   It was a definite share dish with a shameful amount going to waste but if you are going to sin that was surely the way to do it.  

Our destination was to Trinity College dating back to 1592!   We were entertained by a delightful grad student on a half hour guided tour.  Wow, hard to believe some of the tidbits she shared.  One that sticks with me is the residence halls. Specifically, an old brick building that appeared dismal to me, seems to be in hot demand.  Until 1992 the building didn't have central heating or plumbing and students would be up early in the morning lined up outside to use the showers and toilets (2 doors).  I asked didn't they have a problem filling the place and she said quite the contrary it is considered a real privilege!  We enjoyed the shade of two huge trees in central square that were Oregon Maple.  We learned they are not known to grow this size even in Oregon and they can only explain it to the rain and the fertile soil beneath.  Seems hundreds of years ago it was a burial ground for Monks!

The real draw at Trinity College was the famous Book of Kells dating back to @ 561 a.d. by the monks on Iona Island . Some were scribes and others artists and what art!   The over was gold and jewels so when the Vikings sailed in and raped and pillaged they ripped off the cover and threw the book into a field.   Some months later a farmer found and recovered it.   We were able to see this amazing book along with several other ancient writings and were in awe with the art involved.   The writing didn't simply include writing but intricate and beautiful pictures were drawn around specific letters.  We had never seen anything quite like it.  We finished at the college with a tour of the Library called the Long Room which is about 200 feet long and the height of 2-3 stories housing 200,000 books.   They don't use the books however, of course partially because of their age, but also because they are not in order by title or author.  Instead by size from the largest to the smallest.  I wonder who's idea that was?

By the end of this tour everything was closing for the day so we had to drop by the famous or infamous Temple Bar.   We had one drink and a delightful time.  At 5:00 the traditional music was already playing and I would challenge anyone to sit more than 5 minutes without having to tap your feet or fingers or perhaps begin clapping.  Looking around it seemed everyone was grinning from ear to ear and heads were bobbing.  John was super impressed with their Whiskey menu it had 286 listed however they have 395 different whiskeys in house.  One final story about the Temple Bar or more exacting, the people of Ireland.   When we arrived and found two stools there were three ladies nearby about my age that were enjoying their Guinness and really enjoying the music with singing and clapping with delight.  They were Irish but I got a sense they were not Dubliners.  As John and I got a chance to get a table I decided to go to the restroom and given the size of the bar thought I would just ask someone.  I picked one of these ladies because they attracted me.  The lady I asked immediately jumped from her stool took my hand and literally holding my hand took me to the stairs pointing down with a "There you go dear, be careful now."  What can I say?   I have a feeling this journal is going to be filled with these kinds of stories.  Nice way to close this chapter of Dublin for sure.

I'll end the day with a quote from one of the folks we met in the past couple of days that supports a bit of friendly competition between areas or counties in Ireland that we have already begun to enjoy.   "The only good thing coming out of Dublin is the road to Cork."

Ireland & Scotland 2013

Good Day!  And a quite pleasant day it is today here in Dublin.  We will begin our travelogue this evening with the hopes that you that choose to read will find it interesting and perhaps at times entertaining. 

We arrived from NYC in Dublin here yesterday a bit travel weary but not to worn from it all.  Most of you that read this know we are Home Exchangers and this trip we are in a home in a seaside suburb of Dublin.  

After a cab ride from the airport we were met by a family friend who showed us around the house.   There is always some adjusting to be done when you come into someone's home.  Where is this/that?   Internet?  How does the shower work?   And so today we continue with that learning curve as well as some time/sleep adjustments.  We find that the time adjustments are more significant for us now than they were 17 years ago when we were on our honeymoon.   Hmmmm....puzzling. 

Some first impressions over 24 hours.....cold....very friendly people.....cold.....surprisingly tall people (not the stereo type we may expect).....a bit cold....quaint....beautiful although a bit cool.  Although the cold I'm describing is not 'that' cold with a high of 67 and low in the 40s....it is actually colder in the old brick home than outdoors or at least it feels that way.   Very little sunshine at this point but expected no less.  

And so our first day after a very leisurely morning was a walk into the village, Sandy Cove County Dublin.   From here some highlights of the experience.....of course like most European towns/villages/areas we have travelled there are little shops selling unique goods such as a meat market, bakery, fruits and vegetable  No less enjoyable and unique to us.

Along the walk we dropped into a very tiny fruit and vegetable shop, The Punnet, and met the proprietor, Anna.  I inquired about the potatoes she had advertised as 'new potatoes from Wickland'.  Puzzled by the early season I wondered if they were fresh from this year.  I, having raised potatoes many years in Minnesota was never used to harvesting even the newest until at least August.  She said they were and they were delicious but we should wait until next week when the very best, the Queens, will arrive.  We promised our return.  I asked if they just boil and serve with a little butter.....she laughed and said "Oh no, with a LOT of butter"  At that point a hunched over little old lady chuckled and said...."Yes and a lot of salt!".  We later were introduced to this sweet little lady, Celia who is 86 years old.   She was so happy to meet us and it was mutual for sure. 

At this limited point we are struck with how friendly people are and we can't help but contrast it to our last trip to France.   The French people were not rude in our experience but indifferent may be the best term, I tried to no avail to make eye contact and not a hello.   It just didn't work. 

Today, as I sat in a tiny sidewalk café with a glass of wine people were crossing the street and smiling with a nod.   Actually a motor bike passed and the young woman on the back smiled and said "Hallo luv...."  Then there was a tiny little dog, 'Otis'.  Just kind of makes you chuckle thinking about it. 

I mentioned sitting having a' glass of wine....this was while John was in the 'Gents Hairdresser' getting a haircut.   It seems his 'Hairdresser' was quite the talker.   He was a man of his late 60's
who told the story of standing as a child in this very shop watching his father cut gentlemen's hair.  Although he thought to give another profession a go, fishing didn't work out for him and he found his way back home and has been here ever since, some 40+ years.   His son is now manning a little shop across the street prepared to take up when Dad retires.

I was next door with my glass of wine sounding surprised that my waiter knew I was from the states.  When I asked him how he knew he replied "Your accent of course."   I found myself thinking, "Wait you have the accent."   How ethnocentric of me!  I guess my waiter worried about me sitting alone so he brought me a paper with "You may wish to take a look at the paper.....very depressing that it is"  They are now dealing with fresh news about bank fraud here and have not begun to recover from the 2008 crash.

Final story for the night.....from a café where we had dinner.  John ordered Duck Liver Pate and commented he couldn't get that in California.   Our waiter, although well aware of the law, disgustedly responded "A bunch of pussies.....after all we can decide what we want to order or not....pussies, that's all there is to it and we are talking about America after all!"  Well, with that we simply nodded and agreed, he seemed to feel very strongly about it.

It seems to be dark her so it is time for me to call it a night because the dark only lasts a very few hours.   We have some pictures that will follow perhaps tomorrow.

John & Carol