Return to Aosta

Returning to a place that has been very special after some years have passed can be a set up for disappointment, but it was not so with our return to Aosta and Hotel Milleluci. This time we were able to share this special place with Judy and she of course loved it. The rooms, much like we remembered, were beautifully decorated with traditional furniture, wood beamed ceilings and in our case two balconies overlooking the village with straight on up close views of the Alps. The Inn is run by Momma and two daughters, one named Cristina who we were most acquainted with on our honeymoon. Her daughter with whom she was pregnant with when we were here is now taller than she and of course 14 years old. She laughed remembering how embarrassed John was when we arrived and she grabbed our bags and headed up the stairs (pre-lift times) with John running behind trying to help.

You find yourself whispering when sitting in the common areas, it is just that peaceful. And so we settled in which is an easy thing to do here. One of the additions over the years is a nice spa area with sauna and Turkish baths, indoor and outdoor hot tubs and areas to relax. This evening John & I took advantage of the spa and Judy was tired and opted to rest with a book. As we ended the day we could see the ‘ladies’ with members of their family baking the cakes and breads for our morning breakfast. The smells were wonderful and a nice way to end the day.

Alore, for the past couple of days John has been trying to fight off a flu bug or cold and this morning following breakfast he opted to stay at the Inn and left us ladies to go to the village and shop. We met him for a light lunch and considered taking the bus ride to Courmayeur-Entreves and then a daring cable car ride across Mont Blanc and down to Chamonix France. This ride was one I could never convince John to consider but Judy was game. As it turned out, however, this was something we should have planned in advance and begun first thing in the morning. Instead of a major adventure we settled for a stroll waiting for shops to re-open at 3:30. I may not have mentioned but most shops close at 12:30 or 1:00 until 3:00 to 3:30 and then remain open until 8:00. But this varies greatly depending on the size of the towns. Many restaurants close about 3:00-4:00 and reopen between 6:00-7:00 for dinner. After nearly three weeks we have adjusted and come to understand these customs.

I mention above that we gave up the major adventure and that really isn’t accurate. We, or more particularly I, did have an adventure while we strolled the streets of Aosta. Unlike my sister who seems to be able to manage these things better, I occasionally need a bathroom relatively frequently and don’t/can’t wait too long. I shared with Judy I needed to search in earnest and so we decided on a tidy little Café. We ordered a glass of wine and I quickly asked for a toilet while Judy took our drinks outside. I was directed out the back, down the hall and that opened into an alleyway and there I saw a little door that said Toilette. I was thinking, “This might not be good” but it wasn’t something I could negotiate so I gingerly proceeded. When I opened the door my eyes must have been like saucers! There was no ‘stool’ there, only a simple raised rectangle of porcelain about the size of a toilet and raised about an inch off the floor with a hole in the back. An old fashioned outhouse would have been preferable. I couldn’t believe it but had to figure something out so I did and with that I will leave out any further detail. Let me just saying being raised in Minnesota and spending a lot of time in the woods I had some experience that I never anticipated using while on a trip to Italy. When I returned and began to tell Judy my story we giggled till we couldn’t breathe! All the time we are giggling we were trying not to let anyone notice. Judy just kept saying, “I don’t mean to laugh at you but I’m glad it was you and not me!” I understand that.

We returned to join John at the hotel and decided to enjoy the spa in the late afternoon prior to dinner so off we went. When we walked in there was a couple in the indoor hot tub and the lady was topless. I understand the custom of spas in Europe as does Judy so we gingerly proceeded, albeit quickly, through to the outdoor tub. When we came in I convinced Judy to come with me to the Turkish bath and as we got to the door she said, ”there are two pair of shoes there and one of them is men’s” and I assured her it would be fine not knowing that for sure. We walked in and before I could sit, she was gone! She saw that lady with no top on and wasn’t going to take a chance that the guy was au natural. Lucky for me he was not. I ended up visiting with this couple for some time and finally joined Judy in the cool shower. As we were drying and preparing to leave a young man entered clad in a robe and we nodded a greeting. Judy was busy getting ready to go and I was sure she was occupied and didn’t notice him so I thought this could be pretty funny. He dropped his robe and of course was naked and I was watching Judy because I was sure she would turn to grab her robe and there he would be and I would have a big laugh at her reaction! How many times have I said, “Hey Jud did you see that?” and she says “No…where?” But this time she had noticed him and told me she saw that robe and wasn’t taking any chances. So my chance for another case of the giggles was foiled.

This evening we opted to return to the place John and I had eaten while on our honeymoon, Veccha Aosta which is set between the Roman walls. Typically, I’m not a big Risotto fan but this evening I opted for that and no other course. It was different and very good. Judy loved her pheasant salad and we all loved John’s beef dish. We didn’t write down the name of the dish but it is roast soaked in local red wine for three days and slow cooked for 3-1/2 hours while periodically adding red wine. It was amazing, but I think the thing I will remember the most was our visit with our waiter, Daineri. Our first encounter suggested he may be a bit of a curmudgeon so I asked John if he thought I should play the old ‘flirt/charm’ card and he said he thought we needed it. I started by telling him that of course I didn’t speak Italian and I wanted to try to pronounce the item I was ordering and needed his help. His first response was “Madame why you say you do not speak Italian, when we received your reservation it said Rosingana. My accountant in Torino was name Rosingana?” Of course I responded that was my husband and I was Norwegian. At this we agreed I would try to pronounce my order in Italian and he immediately began to break his frown and I proceeded to attempt my pronunciation. I was nervous and embarrassed but he said I did beautifully and we were off and running. By the close of the evening he was walking us to the door and we could hardly break away.

Our time at Hotel Milleluci passed quickly and we captured our last views of the Alps both with the moon and morning light, said good bye to Cristina hoping to return in far less than fourteen years and off we went to the train for one hell of a journey to Alba in the region of Piedmont.