France - July 22, 2011

July 22, 2011 – Dinard France

Days have passed and wonderful experiences since I have updated our blog. Before I continue our journey from Normandy to Brittany there are a couple of important things to share. First, prior to leaving Bayeaux we took time to take advantage of the local artisan markets. The experience left us with goodies to bring home but more lasting was our conversation with the shop keepers we were pleased to acquaint.

I walked into a shop selling beautiful scarves not expecting to have more than a short shopping experience. John joined me and in the end we had a delightful conversation with a beautiful young shopkeeper. She spoke only a word or two of English and we no French. In the end she shared with us she was from Cancale which was near the area in Brittany we planned to visit. She spoke for some time, only in French, describing where we must go to eat seafood. We politely pretended to understand at some level and left totally clueless but were rewarded by the ‘conversation’. More to follow on Cancale later in this journal. As a postscript to this experience we want to say that we have found the French people to be very polite and kind, and not in the least living up to the idea we American’s often have to the contrary.

Aleur…..we have learned this is the French way of saying what the Italians would say alore’ or we may say ‘and so’.

And so……aleur, we continued on our journey through Normandy with our final highlight being Mont St Michel. Being one of Europe’s major attractions it is impossible to describe the sight of this mountain rising up from the sea. It appears, majestic like an island, suddenly as one travels through low and flat pasture land. We found it amazing and one of those things that is very difficult to describe or photograph. Suffice that we felt privileged to have seen this ancient and beautiful creation of God that ultimately was built into an abbey from the 8th-13th century.

One of the few reservations we had made for this trip included the chateau in Normandy and now we were arriving at the Grand Hotel Barriere Dinard where we held reservations for two nights. Of course following our past experience we arrived with some trepidation. I’m so pleased to say the opposite was true at this hotel, rather than being overstated this lovely hotel was understated.

The hotel is old world elegant with a beautiful view of a bay which is part of the English Channel. We were gracefully shown to our room with balconies overlooking the bay. We couldn’t have been happier! To give you an idea we found notes on our pillows, translated to English’ “wishing you a beautiful night with sweetest dreams.” And so it was! We simply spent our evening going for a walk enjoying the view along with nice red wine and a light dinner.

Our waiter this first evening, Patrice, is a Breton or a local. He is very polished and was kind enough to spend some time with us talking about the history of the area. As he described their heritage is Celtic and as he said “used to being persecuted”. Their Breton language is understood by the Welsh and Cornish but Patrice assured us the language is coming back. As we have traveled we have found it interesting and most charming to see young people from different regions and countries proudly describe the place of their birth and childhood. It seems the more questions we ask the more encouraged they are to share. Fortunately, Patrice’s pride of his homeland proved justified we have loved Brittany.

The first full day we had in Dinard we took the ferry to Saint Malo a peninsula we viewed from our balcony. Although it appears as an island, driving there is possible but not advisable because the real attraction is within the old and walled city. We learned Saint Malo was founded by Corsairs not to be confused, as Patrice would tell us, as Bretons. Corsairs by the definition we heard could be defined as Pirates. Our visit to Saint Malo was enjoyable highlighted by occasional street musicians and simply the chance to walk through such ancient streets. It was a relaxing day and upon our return to Dinard via ferry we spent the late afternoon walking through the streets of Dinard we had not yet experienced. The evening for us closed with a glass of wine and a room service dinner with a view.

Today, our last day in the area, we of course had to head to Cancale, the village our young friend in Bayeux described to us. The French told us this is the ultimate spot to eat Oysters, something that does not influence me, however for John it is a highlight. Aleur, following a beautiful European breakfast, we drove off to Cancale today. Of course it was beautiful and John says the Oysters were the best he had experienced. In Cancale, if one is so disposed, you can simply walk near the dock buy a plate of oysters fresh from the water and perch on the seawall and eat them. John felt more comfortable with a café which I understood!

This area has a very dramatic tide pattern, we continue to be amazed by watching boats from our balcony floating away in the bay only to be land locked at a later hour of the day. Makes for an interesting and beautiful view all times of the day and night.

Notably, during our time in Normandy and Brittany we have seen more camping areas than we have seen in other parts of Europe we have visited. Campgrounds are not what we would expect in the USA nor are the campers oversized homes away from home. The RVs we have seen are comparable to the size we may have expected to see 30-40 years ago. We love to observe other cultures and the sometimes subtle differences that make it more interesting to visit. On this trip we have noticed the French love their dogs and their dogs are pretty much accepted anywhere. They may be at your table in a restaurant and in fine hotels, no one blinks an eye. In this area we have noticed quite elderly people who seem to be traveling alone, one caring for the other. In most cases we can’t imagine they would have driven but that we cannot be sure of. We have found it touching and can only imagine these people perhaps 20-30 years ago right here in Dinard on holiday full of life and celebrating ....now life is much more difficult for them and yet they return. As we watched each couple we took pause and found it very heartwarming. Of course it did not escape us how fast the time flies and how soon we too, God willing, will be that old couple.

We loved this spot in Brittany so much that we decided to extend a day which afforded us the time to relax and to visit Cancale and this evening after watching the evening close in on this beautiful bay we will end our time in Dinard. We have spoken with the Concierge and gotten the best route to Paris without using the motorway. We will take our time traveling through more of Brittany and the Loire Valley. The area sounds beautiful and we are very much looking forward to the drive and the day.

Closing this portion of our journal with a snapshot we saw today as we drove to Cancale. Of course there are many people on bicycle but the one that seemed most indicative of France so far was a bicyclist with his pack on the back of his bike topped with a nice bottle of Champagne!

Au revoir for now…..