Truth be told, we both enjoyed that one last taste of Strasbourg and made pretty quick work of our shopping which included something freshly baked items from one of their amazing bakeries for John.
By late morning we had hit the motorway for our 200 mile drive where we had reservations at a Chateau, outside of Epernay in Champagne. Yes we were going to give this chateau thing one more try.
Notably, as we hit the French motorways again, was the wayside rests. We may have hundreds of miles in the US without a rest stop and here we clocked many only 12 miles apart. These were nicely wooded stops with picnic tables some quite large. We were disgusted that we hadn’t thought to pick up our own picnic items so we could make a quick stop and also enjoy the countryside. We opted instead for one of the many motorway restaurants attached to a petrol station. We had noticed these type places as we drove through France but had never stopped to investigate. What ensued was jaw dropping for us and we likely were wide eyed with mouths wide open. We walked in expecting something like our hamburger or taco joints plus some convenience ‘junk’ food like chips and candy. Folks this place was frenzy from the time we stopped to park! There were people eating at table’s outdoors, using a big rock for a table, standing eating a sandwich on the walkway, not to mention all that were seated inside. The choices were a full buffet including sliced ham, other meats and many vegetables, salads and desserts. A full salad bar was another option. We just wandered a bit not sure what to do because we were just looking for a simple baguette, fruit and cheese. There was also a case with pizzas and sandwiches, a vending machine for noodles and a microwave to cook them. After getting over our shock we noticed the entire other side was more the ‘gas station’ type items we may have expected so we found what we were looking for and opted to eat in our car while watching all that was going on around us. We are sure this was not an isolated incident because many of the stops we passed seemed to be filled with people. We have also noticed on the motorways some overpasses that appear to be no larger than a small country lane and this day on two different passes we saw elderly couples strolling along up over the motorway seeming to be out for an afternoon stroll. One overpass was covered with stacks of greenery and sported a sign that we could interpret to say animals crossing. These are the kind of things that make traveling to another country so interesting, it isn’t just the museums and the big restaurants and land marks, sometimes it is simple things.
By late afternoon we exited the motorway to make our way to the chateau, Royal Champagne. It just wasn’t that easy because it seems our GPS was not sure of this location. Of course these are small villages with rolling hills filled with vineyards, and winding roads. After a few false starts we pulled up to our destination and after the experience in Normandy I was holding my breath although it looked far more promising with flower beds everywhere and perched on a hillside with the vineyards right outside the door. Of course it is old and we learned Napoleon and his armies used to stop by and rest and stock up on champagne prior to their heading into a battle. Just a quick side note, the story goes that the onetime Napoleon did not stop here was on his way to Waterloo and we all know what happened there so one could make the point to sustain oneself with champagne prior to ‘doing something rather important.’ I’m just saying….one could.
Well Napoleon had really good taste! This place was old world but well kept, while tastefully and elegantly decorated. As we entered the lobby, which seemed more like a large parlor in a grand home, young gentlemen was sitting at an antique desk and immediately rose to greet us as if he had been waiting there just for us to arrive. The room was filled with beautiful tables and chairs in comfortable seating areas and he invited us to sit and “perhaps you would like to start with a glass of champagne?” John was equally tickled when presented with a plate of fresh Madeleines. This, prior to actually doing the paperwork to check us in! Once we were sufficiently relaxed he accompanied us to our room and I was stunned when I walked in. We knew they were ‘townhouse’ style rooms, meaning an outdoor/enclosed walkway with entrance to each room and each room fronted the Moet Chandon vineyards. But I didn’t anticipate this lovely room not to mention the view. It was decorated in antique French, although I’m no expert but I think this is a good guess. The walls were covered in fabric and the bed has a half canopy. The large bedroom area had a small sofa, coffee table, two easy chairs and an antique desk and that room was adjoined with an archway where there was another small settee, table and easy chair. This room had windows likely 6 feet high and 10 feet across. To say the view was gorgeous would be an understatement! 
Of course there were vineyards everywhere not to mention the gardens outside our window and the view of little villages across the hillsides. We were thrilled and quickly made dinner reservations in their dining room because we did not want to miss a moment at this special place.For many people one of the highlights in a trip to France is the food. Although we have fallen in love with their breads, something we eat very little of back home, and an occasional treat of a pastry we have not made fine dining a priority. Tonight would be different and we were aware of that. It was very quiet, perhaps only seven tables filled, with several waiters ready to serve you at any moment. Everyone was talking very low and subdued. Very refined, one could say, and a situation that sometimes can cause me giggles. This night however I behaved myself.
When the young man who greeted us made our reservation he said “I think Madame would like a table by the window?” I replied ‘yes’ of course and so we had that beautiful view right through dinner. There were 2-3 prix fixed menus with multiple courses and John chose one that offered 5 courses. I opted for the ala carte menu. But prior to beginning to serve our order we were started with the chef’s choice of canapés, all of which were delicious. The second chef’s choice we were treated with was Escargot and again it was superb and much better than what we had in Strasbourg. Finally we got to our ‘starters’ which was homemade Foie Gras. Honestly, that is all I would have needed for dinner, it was amazing and I am sure I’m spoiled forever. Prior to our main course John had his second course (technically) which was a fish and finally we reached our main course, John’s of sliced duck and I a Beef Tenderloin which was cooked in a salted bread shell, opened and served tableside.
I was already full so just kind of picked at my dinner except I had been missing vegetables so made quick work of them. I haven’t mentioned but may have been assumed we were enjoying champagne with our dinner. At this point, my ala carte dinner was finished but not John! He still had his Fromage (cheese) course which again was served tableside where he had a choice of 10 or more cheeses. One might think, oh yes the French do serve cheese as dessert, but this was not dessert yet for John. His meal was completed with a homemade Glace which was cool for us to taste as we had not yet done so since arriving here. It isn’t ice cream but rather like fluffy whipped cream lightly frozen. It is difficult to describe but very nice.
And finally dinner came to an end. A dinner we will not soon forget, of this we are sure. It was just one of those once in a life time experiences, or so we thought at the close of this evening……..
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