Haste ye back

July 11^th 2013 and the beginning of our last few days in Ireland.  It was our original plan to leave Edinburgh and drive south closer to our ferry on the morning of the 12^th.  But after reconsidering the distances involved we made the decision to change our ferry reservation to the afternoon of the 11^th bringing us back to the north of Ireland in time to get a nights rest in a B & B and ready to head up the northern coast the next day.   This decision ended up having some interesting ramifications.

With all arrangements made we headed out for a most enjoyable ride south across the Scottish countryside.  Proud of ourselves for our prompt arrival for the ferry we plotted our dash for the best seats once on board.  I, of course, wanting to be right up front with a good view and John not concerned.   Once on board I did the dash on the 7^th floor but was shocked to see the area almost full……quickly we headed to the 8^th floor but it was filling quickly so it was important to make a decision on seating fast.  And so we grabbed the less than optimal spot and began to settle in.

We sat next to two “iffy” couples on deck 8.  The guys were tatted out with metal ear décor and the women looked really worse for wear.  When we discovered an area called ‘Preferred’ where for minimal euros we could be in a more private cushy spot with free snacks, wine, computers, fireplaces and the works.  It didn't take us a minute and a half to make the change and never looked back. The locked doors kept the riff-raff out. It was so cool, we wished the trip were longer than 2-1/2 hours!  The Irish Sea was as smooth as glass that day, we were enjoying the comfort and all in all feeling like we had made a great decision all the way around.   

At one point I headed out of our little area and back down to the 7^th floor to shop a bit in the duty free shop.  Oh my goodness, I could not believe this was the same 7^th floor that a few days ago on our crossing into Scotland was a quiet and comfortable ride.  This time it was a party boat, wild and crazy with folks drinking, singing, and shouting.  I did my shopping and reported back to John how crazy the area was.   We had gotten acquainted with an Irish couple on the ferry and they explained that it was a lot of folks from Scotland headed over for the big ‘Twelfth’ celebration. They warned there would be marching and perhaps a lot of closed roads in our planned route the next day.  We explained we had reservations at a small B & B in Lange, a town on the way up north and appreciated their cautions about the marching.   This was our first clue that Lange might just be the wrong spot for us.  We had heard about the bonfires on our tour of Belfast but being on vacation we just hadn’t really put the dates together.  We just looked at each other and agreed we would muster on, what choices did we have?  

And so off the boat we went and followed our Tom-tom arriving at our humble little B & B and held our breath that it would be at least ‘ok’.  We were greeted by Marian, a sweet little grey haired lady hunched over from the burden of a lot of years.  She showed us to our room with the twin beds and tiny bath and at first our biggest concern was if we could stay cool so we headed down a block to the ocean for a nice walk and cool off.   It was then we noticed the 25 foot tall bonfire structure right across the street from our B & B in a vacant lot.  As we walked we saw the Union Jacks flying and kids dragging branches down to add to the bonfire. John had gone to the car and noticed that ours was the only car in the street facing parking lot that had an Irish license plate. As is our wont, we did not discuss any of this, each knowing what the other is thinking.

At this point we began to have more serious doubts about this spot, but weren't sure what to do about it.   Trying to be nonchalant we came back to the B & B and went to sit in the tiny ‘living room’ and soon were joined with a fellow resident just coming in from a smoke.  She sat down and wanted to get acquainted and so we did.  She explained, in a Scottish brogue that was almost impossible to understand, that she comes every year for The Twelfth and marches for miles and miles.  She stays at Marian’s B & B along with a bunch of her girlfriends.  And so she went on, “I am an Orange Woman!”   I with a serious dose of naivete asked, “Oh, what does that mean?”  She paused and said proudly, “I am a Christian…..and I am a Protestant.”   Unblinking I responded that I too was a Christian and also a Protestant, actually be more exact I was a Lutheran.   She went on to tell that in fact there were Orange Women in the states and she further explained “I mean I know some Catholics…..I like them ok….but we Orange Women stand for Queen and Country!! ”  With our mouths likely hanging open we simply nodded.  This was not the time nor place to try to convince this 60+ year old woman about the error of her ways so to speak.  She continued very anxious share what was to come the next day.  She said the fire would be lit at midnight and commented they really shouldn't have those tires on top, and many would be up drinking all night.  She further commented that she hoped the sparks wouldn't do damage to any cars as they had done to Marian’s car last year. 

About this time someone right out our window in front of the bonfire sight began drumming on a very large drum.   John & I with big eyes began to think about those sparks hitting our car which belonged to our Irish exchangers.  As the drumming continued we knew we would not sleep at all.   Just as we were processing this a younger, and a bit drunk, lady bounced into the room announcing to her friend, “I got Haggis…..I got Haggis.”   She did stop and say hello to us and then off they went to eat their Haggis. John mentioned our car was the only one on the street with Irish license plates.   Now there were three more drummers and in moments we were back in our room calling the Hilton reservation number, booking a room and grabbing our little bag we were down the stairs.  Little Marian came quickly and seeing us with our things said “It is just disgraceful, don’t you think?”   We apologized and said her place was lovely but under the circumstances we could not stay although we would be glad to pay her.  She would not accept that but wished us well.  Off we went back to the Hilton where we had stayed prior to going to Scotland.  We were so excited and relieved!   It felt like coming home right back into that lovely corner room with a view of the entire city.  As we sat that evening watching out the window we saw the fires begin one after another, at one point numbering a dozen that we were able to see.   We had made a very good decision! 

The staff at the hotel advised us we would have a hard time making the drive up the Antrim Coast the next day because there would be road closures for ‘the marches’ everywhere.  And so we were forced to take the motorway on the way up hoping for the coast drive when coming back south.  We later heard the news that there were violent riots on the twelfth placing many police officers in the hospital.  Actually we understood there were riots going on for 3 days in Belfast.  The main reason for the riots is that the marchers were not allowed to march in one part of the city, the Republican or Catholic side and this angered them.  They insisted they had the right to do so, proceeding to jump on top of police vehicles, as well as throwing bricks, rocks and petrol bombs.   I am not afraid to say we were disgusted by this divisive, bigoted, and hateful behavior and couldn't help but wonder why Her Majesty the Queen doesn't denounce these people for behaving as such in her name.  The really sad part of this is that these people are continuing to teach the hatred to their children and grandchildren and with that it makes it difficult to have peace and unity.

After this distasteful, although educating, experience we headed directly north to the town of Bushmill where we had reserved a room at the Bushmill Inn.  From here we would visit the Giant’s Causeway and some of the Antrim Coast, taste whiskey at the famous Bushmill Distillery.  Never having done a whiskey tasting until we reached Scotland (Scotch) and Ireland we found it interesting but want to pass on one saying that tickled us regarding the distilling process.  The ‘Angels Share’, which is explained “As it matures, malt whisky drops in strength due to evaporation by 3-4% initially and then 2% per annum which is known as The Angels Share.

The Bushmill Inn was absolutely lovely, totally loaded with old world charm but not too ‘old’.  In other words it had been kept up and was not weary, but luxurious with little seating areas tucked away around every corner some with fireplaces going.   And to add to that the staff just couldn't have been more charming.  Most evenings when travelling we don’t go out for dinner, it seems it doesn't fit into our two meal a day plan.  This visit, however, we took advantage of the lovely dining room at Bushmill Inn and were not disappointed.  

Our breakfast here puts us at the short timer stage of our visit in Ireland, we only have a couple of days left.   But what a lovely day it was driving south along the Antrim Coast, the sea was calm and the sun was brilliant on the water.  These are the scenes you often see when looking at travel ads for Ireland.  High rolling hills sometimes dropping with cliffs and spilling into brilliant pasture lands and cropland each perfectly looking square seeming to be another shade of green.   And to break that up a drive through quaint little villages or a beautiful stretch of sandy beach.  One beach was the spot for 15-20 cows to sun bath on the sand!

This brings me to note the lovely weather we had for 2 of the 3 weeks we had in Ireland, a country not known for its warm and dry summer days.  And my goodness, I have never seen so many men going about their work or leisure with no shirts on since the old days back home in Minnesota.  The locals were out and about everywhere we went, and although we may not have thought it was a sleeveless or shorts day they certainly did!  

Of course John was getting another dose of those narrow little roads curving along the side of the cliffs but he hung in there!  At one point we came through a village and were just heading out on the narrow road and as we rounded a curve we were astounded by a herd of sheep being driven to down the road, presumably to another pasture.   Traffic stopped.  I got out to get a picture and just stood and laughed as they ran through “Baaaaa…..baaaaa.”  Soon we were all on our way down the road.  I had another unusual ‘sheep’ experience on this trip.  I saw a black sheep!  I thought they only existed in the nursery rhyme world but they are real.  Finally, down the road, I spotted another and John realized that it was not just my imagination. 

A memorable stop on this road was the Carrick a rede Bridge, a suspension bridge from a rugged cliff on land to a large rock formation that had been originally built for salmon fisherman.  Now it draws tourist from all over.  Weeks before our trip, John had announced there was no way he was walking across that bridge ‘it just wasn't his thing’.  I didn't try to convince him differently but I knew I was going to cross that thing regardless!  Somehow, the day of visit he had changed his mind and I think he was glad he did.  Of course once you cross you have to go back so you get the adventure twice! 

We can’t emphasize enough how happy we are that we included the north of Ireland in our trip.  Yes it was a bit of an adventure at times but very educational and the natural raw beauty of this part of the country just should not be missed.

Arriving back in Dublin at bedtime on Saturday night we now were at the point of getting serious about our return home on Tuesday.   We had a lot of laundry to be done, some last minute shopping and we had reservations in the city at the oldest pub in town, Brazenhead, for dinner and Irish storytelling.   Well, I having always loved listening to stories as a child or adult was very excited and John was as well.   It did not disappoint.  We were in a room of @35-40 people at banquet rounds, served a lovely 3 course meal and into courses we were treated to some serious storytelling and one set of Irish folk music.   It was obvious our host loved telling stories.  Our timing couldn't have been better because we now understood the Irish history and understood the reason for their long tradition of storytelling.   It was against the law to teach the Irish to read or write and during those cold winters this was the family’s means of entertainment gathered by the fire just listening.  It was the way they taught their children how to stay safe, good morals and how they should behave.  We learned a lot about the complex fairy world and their forts which had long fascinated me.  Finally, although these stories are ancient and the people could not read, we found similarities in some cases such as the story about the wee boy who had a big sling shot and went after the giant. 

Significant for me with my Norwegian heritage is that we learned the Vikings, who were really bad guys, introduced the red hair gene to Ireland and Scotland explaining to me why I could see a resemblance to my family heritage.

I don’t know why but somehow John and I seem to be able to add some adventure to our travels right up till the time the rooster crows.  Our last day in our house was to be one for laundry, packing, odds and ends of errands.  There happened to have been some shopping during the 3 weeks in Ireland so we found it necessary to purchase another bag.  Now I know everyone is thinking it was all my fault and I’ll take some blame, after all we do have a large family!  John, did a good job this time with purchase of Scotch and Irish whiskies.  I know I have written many times but this kind of travel is not for the faint of heart and this last day proved my point. With laundry finished and all in order in mid-afternoon we headed out to buy that bag, and ‘run downtown’ to exchange the computer cable we had purchased the day before plus a quick stop at a spot where John’s jacket had been left.  You just don’t realize how easy things are when you know where you are going!  John had researched the luggage thing so that was our first stop.  After quite a drive, going into the wrong ‘side’ of the mall we finally got the information that this store had been out of business for quite some time.  We did, however, find another place that could fill our need for an extra bag and so we headed downtown feeling good about things.  Well, I can tell you that didn't last long.  Once again here is John driving in a large foreign city on the wrong side of the road and now it is rush hour!   With rush hour in Dublin comes streets that are bus/taxi only and it just so happened that the streets we needed were among those streets.   The result was our Tom-tom taking us in circles insisting we take the route that we were unable to take.  We actually did try to take it one time around and remember those Garda that I have mentioned are never on the streets?   Well we found one!  Yes we tried to take that bus only route and passed right by a Garda on a motorcycle.  Oops, in moments he was by our side and John, with his window open, said “Hello”.  At that point I think he thought ‘senior citizen and American’, I’ll give him a break.  He proceeded to give us directions which didn't help but we were happy we were not in trouble. 

In the end we wasted about 3 precious hours on this wild goose chase but because we had planned and prepared we still had plenty of time to finish our packing, get a good night’s rest for the trip back to the states.

Our home exchangers arranged a ride to the airport with a family friend and that was so helpful.  We had luggage assistance (much needed) and he actually stuck with us till we went through security.  One of the really cool things in the Dublin airport is that you can go through US customs there eliminating going through it once stateside.

We honestly declared what we were bringing home and were prepared to pay the minimal duty required but we were not required.

And so we came to an end of this magical place with Soda Bread that everyone should have a chance to taste, Black Pudding and Haggis maybe not so much.   Fish of all sorts and then there was the Sticky Pudding!   The beautiful people whose kindness has not been surpassed in our travels.

We started blogging our travel experiences for our own benefit to help us in those days to come when we may not be able to travel and may get joy from just reading and remembering our adventures.   It has evolved from a log or accounting of the where and what we did to the experiences we had.  We know we have friends that tell us they enjoy reading our crazy adventures and to those we say as they say in Scotland "Haste ye back" see you next year on another adventure…..God willing! 

Scotland

July 7-10 2013 Scotland:   After reading many recommendations on Trip Advisor and other sites about travel from Ireland to the UK we ignored most advice and opted for the ferry versus a short flight.  The ferry from Belfast to our port in Scotland would be @2-1/2 hours followed by a drive of about 125 miles from our port to Edinburgh, however, we all know those ‘short’ flights still involve all the waits for security and boarding.   Factor in the adventure of the ferry and the fact that we could utilize our exchange car while in Scotland versus the expense of a rental and it was an easy decision.

We had just a short drive from our hotel to catch the 11:30 ferry out of Belfast and it was a lovely day to be out on the water.  Our ferry was a big boy, 10 stories tall carrying passengers on foot, cars, 18 wheelers and surprisingly a group of Hell's Angels British Club.  The ship offered very comfortable seating choices, bars, cafes, duty free shopping and even a spa on the top floor where you could enjoy massages, saunas and a Jacuzzi.   My shoulders and back notoriously giving me problems were in true form so I opted for a 25 minute chair massage and although it wasn't like home it helped.  We were blessed with a sunny day so the views were brilliant on the 2+ hour ride.

Once landed we were in beautiful countryside right from the start but it didn't take long for us to detour from our planned route.   That is just how we roll!   We saw a sign for the town of Ayr and quickly read the trusty travel book to find it described as a quaint village on the sea (we were a bit inland).  And so we created our own detour and jogged over to Ayr.   Beautiful little seaside village and we thought we may love to stay there if we decided to spend a night in Scotland prior to crossing back to Ireland, something to be considered later in the week.   Either way we were happy we took the detour because we had the chance to see a bit of coastal Scotland.

Feeling good about this we continued on our way toward Edinburgh. Of course time was getting away from us after all of our side trips and to make things more of an adventure Tom Tom died again.  This thing just doesn't hold a charge all day and without the car plug it is very difficult.   Left to our own resources, signs, and John’s white knuckles we took a deep breath and headed into the city center of Edinburgh.  We honestly didn't think we would make it but thought we would try to get into the city as far as we could before stopping and calling for blow by blow directions.  Then I started to recognize some streets from the little map I had in my travel guide….and next there was The Caledonian, our hotel!  It was funny, we pulled up and nearly dove out of the car handing the keys to anyone that looked like official hotel staff.   This was a busy corner with no obvious indication of where to park.  Happily the staff took it from there. 

The Caledonian is a lovely Waldorf Astoria property by Hilton and once again we were using points for the stay.  What a beautiful old hotel with amazing staff.  Again Hilton came through with an upgrade to an over-sized room with a direct view of beautiful Edinburgh Castle, free breakfast and a cocktail for each of us!  

Had there been any doubt, we knew we were in Scotland when we observed a large University of Edinburgh graduation party going on in our hotel.  Although the girls could have been any coed in the US, many of the guys were decked out in Kilts versus tuxedos.   Yes, we were in Scotland!

Having spent one day of our Scotland time on our journey to Edinburgh we really just had one full day to tour and we surely made the best of it.  We have learned that when in a large city such as Edinburgh the most efficient and economical option is a hop on/off bus (usually open topped).   They are very reasonable here, far less than I remember in NYC, running about 13 British Pound and in Dublin about 15 Euro.  We don’t necessarily want to get into detail on every stop so may choose to just enjoy the drive by and listen to the educational commentary.  Often we use it simply as a means to get from point A to point B.   And so this day we jumped on the bus and headed right to the famous Edinburgh Castle.  

We have been blessed with the gift of travel and have feasted our eyes on many castles with this being one of the larger.   Although it can’t be compared to Neuschwanstein Castle in terms of the furnished rooms and opulence it is huge and much older dating back to the 12^th century.   One of the highlights for us was seeing the Crown Jewels.  We were told by a Scotsman these were the ‘real’ jewels and what they have in London are “cheap imitations”.   This crown was used to crown Mary Queen of Scots in 1543.  The age of the piece and the hundreds, perhaps thousands, of diamonds and gems made it really interesting to see.   The castle, as most that are still standing in Europe, was pretty commercialized with big crowds so we opted to simply hit the highlights and move on to our next adventure.   We rode the trusty bus for a bit and gathered some more insights into the city and then popped off at University of Edinburgh for just a bit of shopping.  Somewhere in here we fit in a bite of lunch in one of the hundreds of pubs in the area.  A very different thing here in Scotland in the ‘pubs’ is that although they serve food they don’t take your order and in most pubs in Edinburgh we experienced they didn't bother to tell the customer or post signs so after sitting for some time you (the tourist) are bound to go to the bar and ask and then you will get your order placed.  I must admit we found it a bit aggravating, especially when you see staff just standing around and seemingly not interested in helping you.  They do however take note of your table when you order and then deliver it to you.    

We spent a bit of time shopping for traditional Scottish goods, most of which was wool or more specifically Cashmere.   I found it to be ridiculously expensive and couldn't bring myself to buy a sweater especially living in Temecula!  But that is my personal bias.  I did learn that Cashmere is made from Goat not Sheep!    Although you hear so much about Scottish wool, we actually saw far more wool of different grades and quality in the shops in Ireland than we saw while shopping Scotland but we didn't spend much time in the Highlands so that may be the difference.

When in Scotland, famous for its Whiskey you have to spend a bit of time tasting.  Scotch I’m told is obviously all Whiskey in Scotland and it is not something I have ever been interested in drinking but “when in Rome” as they say.  And so I sat down with John to give it a go in a shop that was sampling all types and willing to spend time educating the tasters. I learned really quickly what I liked and did not like.  There are four quadrants with the smoky on the top, delicate on the bottom and on each side light or rich.  One of the types uses more Peat during the process.  This is the thing I remembered about having tasted Scotch years ago, the smoky.   And so I stayed over in the lighter/delicate quadrant of choices and actually did ok (no shivering or gagging), and I began to acquire a taste for it.  Of course we got acquainted with a young couple from California, perhaps in their late 20s who had been tasting up in the Highlands for a few days as well as getting engaged.  He, a trained Engineer but currently a Navy Pilot, had quite an educated palate coming from his family of Whiskey drinkers and she happily in the same place as I, trying to develop a palate. 

Our last stop on our tour was the Palace of Holyroodhouse.   This is a place the Queen uses for a “wee summer holiday", and as a matter of fact she had been there the week before.  Had we arrived then we would not have been able to visit.  I have to admit it was interesting to see a palace that royals actively, however, minimally use.  The grand reception rooms, the chamber and anti-chamber (whatever that is supposed to mean), the dining room with silver serving pieces numbering to 3000!  And then of course every palace must have a throne room, but I learned the throne is not used.  This Queen doesn't like thrones it seems too much like wielding power over people and she is much more down to earth I was told.  Funny thing about the thrones though, one had a much higher cushion on the seat.  It was the seat of the Queens Grandfather and he was shorter than his wife so the special cushion was made to ‘bring him up to her level’ so to speak.  We learned that that Kings bedchamber really hadn't been used much, all those jewels were more for show and usually they slept in another more comfortable room.   We walked through Mary Queen of Scots bed chamber where she delivered her son and learned about the start of her demise.  Makes me want to go home and learn more about her but right now from the little I have learned she has my sympathy. We left wondering in these tough times how does the public feel about maintaining a palace for the Queen for a mere one week a year.  Seemed a bit of waste to us but I guess it maintains history.

We got off at one more stop and then began our walk back to our hotel.   John was starving so looking for the best spot to stop for dinner we opted for a great authentic Spanish Tapas place.   We were ready for a change from the Scottish options anyway. 

That brings me to comments about the food on this trip.   It sure hasn't been the healthiest and certainly will call for some serious dieting (life style changes) when we get home but I enjoyed much of the Irish fare and that hasn't been the case in Scotland.   Of course there are lots of fish options but I’m a very finicky fish eater.   Scotland versus Ireland has far more menu items that I had to look up such as: Haggis…sheep hearts/lungs/liver and Neeps which are Turnips or Swedes (I get both answers) and Tatties which are Potatoes, and Cullen Skink which is a fish stew.   The whole ‘parts’ thing is quite common here.   Although there are a lot of sausages on menus, especially at breakfast, neither John or I have been fond of them because they are ground extremely fine.  The breads here in Scotland can’t compete with Ireland either so that is a very good thing for me!  I have always of tea and Crumpets but didn't know what they were so finally ordered for my breakfast and after a couple of bites the closest thing I could compare it to would be our English Muffins. 

Another comparison to Ireland we notice the lack of Garda on the roads here as well.  As a matter of fact they just don’t exist, and cameras appear to be their sole tool for controlling speeding.  Here in Scotland tipping is far more ‘accepted’ without discomfort whereas in Ireland there seemed to be a real shyness about that.  As a matter of fact when a young man brought something to our room in Belfast and John tipped him he backed away saying “Oh no sir, this is my duty.” 

The accent is a bit more difficult to understand, of course depending on the individual.  One thing for sure you hear a lot of “Hey-a” (hello), “youse” (you), and far too many to write about.  I have read that the accent changes by regions so much like we have in the states with regional accents.

My funny comment for Edinburgh once again had to do with people.  We were sitting in the hotel restaurant in Scotland having breakfast and were being served by a Polish waiter.  That wasn't so funny but later I was tickled watching him talking to a young Chinese couple trying to explain a Smoothie.  He had to result to demonstrating the blender spinning with sounds effects and all.  She got it though and was happy to order one for her breakfast.

After two nights in the city we had reservations for a Marriott just outside the city for two nights.  The hotel was situated on a golf course and John was going to have his chance to golf in the Motherland of golf, probably something every golfer would dream of.  We had recognized we were not going to have time to spend a night up in the Highlands and although disappointed we took our move day to take a drive up to the edge of this area for a taste.   Speaking of tastes there were also two Distilleries on our way and we stopped for more tastes of whiskey more about that later. 

The drive was lovely beginning with the famous Bridge of Forth over the Firth.  It had been billed as an 8^th wonder of the world by more than one travel guide but we didn't see it.  As far as bridges go it was pretty I guess (railroad) and maybe to an engineer it would be a marvel but we come from the land of the Golden Gate so it just was not all that impressive.  The countryside, however, was breathtaking with high and dramatically rolling hillside and crop land with bright green, blue/green, and light greens and then bright fields of mustard.  Most of the houses and barns were brick and the fences either hedgerow or rock.  Pretty much what we have all seen in pictures and post cards, that was the view mile after mile.

As we moved a bit further north the countryside soon moved from rolling hills to steeper, rougher hills and then very little crop land and mostly livestock .  We traveled as far as the village, Pitlochry, a lovely quaint destination in itself.  From there it was just 6 miles on a very narrow road to what is termed Queen’s View.   This was our taste of the Highlands and really whetted our appetite.   It was rough country, covered with trees and when you reached the short climb you had a panoramic view of Loch Rannoch.  The lake stretched beyond what we could see (10 miles).   This was our final stop on this adventure and we had to begin our drive back to Edinburgh and get checked into our hotel.  I do have to say once again, however, how much I admire John and his willingness to brave the driving.  On this road we met a bus at one point and a large utility truck at another point.  Both times John had to back up to a wider spot in the road. Then there were the moments that some idiot came flying around the corner right in the middle of the road and our hearts stopped for a minute as John adjusted for this crazy driving.  Keep in mind this is all while driving on the wrong side of the road to begin with.  I know a lot of much younger guys than he may be hesitant to take on these challenges.  He is my hero!

Now as to the whiskey tasting, we made two stops.  One at a distillery named Glenkinchie where we had the opportunity to walk through a great display area explaining the distilling process and then test whiskeys, again with a tutor helping and educating us.  It was great stuff really and we ended up with one bottle to take home.  I have to say my Dad was on my mind so much during that adventure.  He liked his whiskey and I couldn't help but think he would have surely enjoyed this experience.  Our second stop was for the ‘Grouse Experience’, obviously this distillery was The Grouse.   The facility was quite large and offered a café so we grabbed a bite and tasted.  Another unique part of this stop was that they offered tastings of other whiskeys from the area, sort of a one stop shop.   In the end we learned that whiskey tasting is very much like wine tasting.  It is all about the aromas, the front flavors and the finish, and just as wine we heard the comparisons to fruit, tobacco, chocolate, nuts, earthy and of course smoke.  Many of these whiskeys are what is called single malt meaning whatever is in the barrel is that whiskey.  The other type is called a blend which takes what is in the barrel and mixes other single malts to make a specific blend.  We heard of a man who works with the famous Grouse whose nose is insured for 2 million pounds with Lords of London.  This guy can sniff and determine what needs to be adjusted in the blend, and makes a bunch of money doing it!

At the end of our mini Highland tour and a bit of whiskey tasting we headed back south to our hotel just outside of Edinburgh to be set up for John’s adventure in the morning.  I got a kick out of him because, although he is a quiet guy, you could feel the excitement.  He had his clothes planned, his reservations made, and an arrangement for a wake-up call.  I slept in and he golfed returning in early afternoon grinning from ear to ear and very tired.   He was matched with a local, Andy, who he said was a nice guy and a good golfer.   A different kind of golf he said and so another thing off the bucket list.

Next stop the North of Ireland…….

Post Script:  In this land of Brave Heart, we braved a taste of the Haggis this morning at breakfast, just had to do it before leaving Scotland.   Verdict, not a big deal but we wouldn't repeat it.