Haste ye back

July 11^th 2013 and the beginning of our last few days in Ireland.  It was our original plan to leave Edinburgh and drive south closer to our ferry on the morning of the 12^th.  But after reconsidering the distances involved we made the decision to change our ferry reservation to the afternoon of the 11^th bringing us back to the north of Ireland in time to get a nights rest in a B & B and ready to head up the northern coast the next day.   This decision ended up having some interesting ramifications.

With all arrangements made we headed out for a most enjoyable ride south across the Scottish countryside.  Proud of ourselves for our prompt arrival for the ferry we plotted our dash for the best seats once on board.  I, of course, wanting to be right up front with a good view and John not concerned.   Once on board I did the dash on the 7^th floor but was shocked to see the area almost full……quickly we headed to the 8^th floor but it was filling quickly so it was important to make a decision on seating fast.  And so we grabbed the less than optimal spot and began to settle in.

We sat next to two “iffy” couples on deck 8.  The guys were tatted out with metal ear décor and the women looked really worse for wear.  When we discovered an area called ‘Preferred’ where for minimal euros we could be in a more private cushy spot with free snacks, wine, computers, fireplaces and the works.  It didn't take us a minute and a half to make the change and never looked back. The locked doors kept the riff-raff out. It was so cool, we wished the trip were longer than 2-1/2 hours!  The Irish Sea was as smooth as glass that day, we were enjoying the comfort and all in all feeling like we had made a great decision all the way around.   

At one point I headed out of our little area and back down to the 7^th floor to shop a bit in the duty free shop.  Oh my goodness, I could not believe this was the same 7^th floor that a few days ago on our crossing into Scotland was a quiet and comfortable ride.  This time it was a party boat, wild and crazy with folks drinking, singing, and shouting.  I did my shopping and reported back to John how crazy the area was.   We had gotten acquainted with an Irish couple on the ferry and they explained that it was a lot of folks from Scotland headed over for the big ‘Twelfth’ celebration. They warned there would be marching and perhaps a lot of closed roads in our planned route the next day.  We explained we had reservations at a small B & B in Lange, a town on the way up north and appreciated their cautions about the marching.   This was our first clue that Lange might just be the wrong spot for us.  We had heard about the bonfires on our tour of Belfast but being on vacation we just hadn’t really put the dates together.  We just looked at each other and agreed we would muster on, what choices did we have?  

And so off the boat we went and followed our Tom-tom arriving at our humble little B & B and held our breath that it would be at least ‘ok’.  We were greeted by Marian, a sweet little grey haired lady hunched over from the burden of a lot of years.  She showed us to our room with the twin beds and tiny bath and at first our biggest concern was if we could stay cool so we headed down a block to the ocean for a nice walk and cool off.   It was then we noticed the 25 foot tall bonfire structure right across the street from our B & B in a vacant lot.  As we walked we saw the Union Jacks flying and kids dragging branches down to add to the bonfire. John had gone to the car and noticed that ours was the only car in the street facing parking lot that had an Irish license plate. As is our wont, we did not discuss any of this, each knowing what the other is thinking.

At this point we began to have more serious doubts about this spot, but weren't sure what to do about it.   Trying to be nonchalant we came back to the B & B and went to sit in the tiny ‘living room’ and soon were joined with a fellow resident just coming in from a smoke.  She sat down and wanted to get acquainted and so we did.  She explained, in a Scottish brogue that was almost impossible to understand, that she comes every year for The Twelfth and marches for miles and miles.  She stays at Marian’s B & B along with a bunch of her girlfriends.  And so she went on, “I am an Orange Woman!”   I with a serious dose of naivete asked, “Oh, what does that mean?”  She paused and said proudly, “I am a Christian…..and I am a Protestant.”   Unblinking I responded that I too was a Christian and also a Protestant, actually be more exact I was a Lutheran.   She went on to tell that in fact there were Orange Women in the states and she further explained “I mean I know some Catholics…..I like them ok….but we Orange Women stand for Queen and Country!! ”  With our mouths likely hanging open we simply nodded.  This was not the time nor place to try to convince this 60+ year old woman about the error of her ways so to speak.  She continued very anxious share what was to come the next day.  She said the fire would be lit at midnight and commented they really shouldn't have those tires on top, and many would be up drinking all night.  She further commented that she hoped the sparks wouldn't do damage to any cars as they had done to Marian’s car last year. 

About this time someone right out our window in front of the bonfire sight began drumming on a very large drum.   John & I with big eyes began to think about those sparks hitting our car which belonged to our Irish exchangers.  As the drumming continued we knew we would not sleep at all.   Just as we were processing this a younger, and a bit drunk, lady bounced into the room announcing to her friend, “I got Haggis…..I got Haggis.”   She did stop and say hello to us and then off they went to eat their Haggis. John mentioned our car was the only one on the street with Irish license plates.   Now there were three more drummers and in moments we were back in our room calling the Hilton reservation number, booking a room and grabbing our little bag we were down the stairs.  Little Marian came quickly and seeing us with our things said “It is just disgraceful, don’t you think?”   We apologized and said her place was lovely but under the circumstances we could not stay although we would be glad to pay her.  She would not accept that but wished us well.  Off we went back to the Hilton where we had stayed prior to going to Scotland.  We were so excited and relieved!   It felt like coming home right back into that lovely corner room with a view of the entire city.  As we sat that evening watching out the window we saw the fires begin one after another, at one point numbering a dozen that we were able to see.   We had made a very good decision! 

The staff at the hotel advised us we would have a hard time making the drive up the Antrim Coast the next day because there would be road closures for ‘the marches’ everywhere.  And so we were forced to take the motorway on the way up hoping for the coast drive when coming back south.  We later heard the news that there were violent riots on the twelfth placing many police officers in the hospital.  Actually we understood there were riots going on for 3 days in Belfast.  The main reason for the riots is that the marchers were not allowed to march in one part of the city, the Republican or Catholic side and this angered them.  They insisted they had the right to do so, proceeding to jump on top of police vehicles, as well as throwing bricks, rocks and petrol bombs.   I am not afraid to say we were disgusted by this divisive, bigoted, and hateful behavior and couldn't help but wonder why Her Majesty the Queen doesn't denounce these people for behaving as such in her name.  The really sad part of this is that these people are continuing to teach the hatred to their children and grandchildren and with that it makes it difficult to have peace and unity.

After this distasteful, although educating, experience we headed directly north to the town of Bushmill where we had reserved a room at the Bushmill Inn.  From here we would visit the Giant’s Causeway and some of the Antrim Coast, taste whiskey at the famous Bushmill Distillery.  Never having done a whiskey tasting until we reached Scotland (Scotch) and Ireland we found it interesting but want to pass on one saying that tickled us regarding the distilling process.  The ‘Angels Share’, which is explained “As it matures, malt whisky drops in strength due to evaporation by 3-4% initially and then 2% per annum which is known as The Angels Share.

The Bushmill Inn was absolutely lovely, totally loaded with old world charm but not too ‘old’.  In other words it had been kept up and was not weary, but luxurious with little seating areas tucked away around every corner some with fireplaces going.   And to add to that the staff just couldn't have been more charming.  Most evenings when travelling we don’t go out for dinner, it seems it doesn't fit into our two meal a day plan.  This visit, however, we took advantage of the lovely dining room at Bushmill Inn and were not disappointed.  

Our breakfast here puts us at the short timer stage of our visit in Ireland, we only have a couple of days left.   But what a lovely day it was driving south along the Antrim Coast, the sea was calm and the sun was brilliant on the water.  These are the scenes you often see when looking at travel ads for Ireland.  High rolling hills sometimes dropping with cliffs and spilling into brilliant pasture lands and cropland each perfectly looking square seeming to be another shade of green.   And to break that up a drive through quaint little villages or a beautiful stretch of sandy beach.  One beach was the spot for 15-20 cows to sun bath on the sand!

This brings me to note the lovely weather we had for 2 of the 3 weeks we had in Ireland, a country not known for its warm and dry summer days.  And my goodness, I have never seen so many men going about their work or leisure with no shirts on since the old days back home in Minnesota.  The locals were out and about everywhere we went, and although we may not have thought it was a sleeveless or shorts day they certainly did!  

Of course John was getting another dose of those narrow little roads curving along the side of the cliffs but he hung in there!  At one point we came through a village and were just heading out on the narrow road and as we rounded a curve we were astounded by a herd of sheep being driven to down the road, presumably to another pasture.   Traffic stopped.  I got out to get a picture and just stood and laughed as they ran through “Baaaaa…..baaaaa.”  Soon we were all on our way down the road.  I had another unusual ‘sheep’ experience on this trip.  I saw a black sheep!  I thought they only existed in the nursery rhyme world but they are real.  Finally, down the road, I spotted another and John realized that it was not just my imagination. 

A memorable stop on this road was the Carrick a rede Bridge, a suspension bridge from a rugged cliff on land to a large rock formation that had been originally built for salmon fisherman.  Now it draws tourist from all over.  Weeks before our trip, John had announced there was no way he was walking across that bridge ‘it just wasn't his thing’.  I didn't try to convince him differently but I knew I was going to cross that thing regardless!  Somehow, the day of visit he had changed his mind and I think he was glad he did.  Of course once you cross you have to go back so you get the adventure twice! 

We can’t emphasize enough how happy we are that we included the north of Ireland in our trip.  Yes it was a bit of an adventure at times but very educational and the natural raw beauty of this part of the country just should not be missed.

Arriving back in Dublin at bedtime on Saturday night we now were at the point of getting serious about our return home on Tuesday.   We had a lot of laundry to be done, some last minute shopping and we had reservations in the city at the oldest pub in town, Brazenhead, for dinner and Irish storytelling.   Well, I having always loved listening to stories as a child or adult was very excited and John was as well.   It did not disappoint.  We were in a room of @35-40 people at banquet rounds, served a lovely 3 course meal and into courses we were treated to some serious storytelling and one set of Irish folk music.   It was obvious our host loved telling stories.  Our timing couldn't have been better because we now understood the Irish history and understood the reason for their long tradition of storytelling.   It was against the law to teach the Irish to read or write and during those cold winters this was the family’s means of entertainment gathered by the fire just listening.  It was the way they taught their children how to stay safe, good morals and how they should behave.  We learned a lot about the complex fairy world and their forts which had long fascinated me.  Finally, although these stories are ancient and the people could not read, we found similarities in some cases such as the story about the wee boy who had a big sling shot and went after the giant. 

Significant for me with my Norwegian heritage is that we learned the Vikings, who were really bad guys, introduced the red hair gene to Ireland and Scotland explaining to me why I could see a resemblance to my family heritage.

I don’t know why but somehow John and I seem to be able to add some adventure to our travels right up till the time the rooster crows.  Our last day in our house was to be one for laundry, packing, odds and ends of errands.  There happened to have been some shopping during the 3 weeks in Ireland so we found it necessary to purchase another bag.  Now I know everyone is thinking it was all my fault and I’ll take some blame, after all we do have a large family!  John, did a good job this time with purchase of Scotch and Irish whiskies.  I know I have written many times but this kind of travel is not for the faint of heart and this last day proved my point. With laundry finished and all in order in mid-afternoon we headed out to buy that bag, and ‘run downtown’ to exchange the computer cable we had purchased the day before plus a quick stop at a spot where John’s jacket had been left.  You just don’t realize how easy things are when you know where you are going!  John had researched the luggage thing so that was our first stop.  After quite a drive, going into the wrong ‘side’ of the mall we finally got the information that this store had been out of business for quite some time.  We did, however, find another place that could fill our need for an extra bag and so we headed downtown feeling good about things.  Well, I can tell you that didn't last long.  Once again here is John driving in a large foreign city on the wrong side of the road and now it is rush hour!   With rush hour in Dublin comes streets that are bus/taxi only and it just so happened that the streets we needed were among those streets.   The result was our Tom-tom taking us in circles insisting we take the route that we were unable to take.  We actually did try to take it one time around and remember those Garda that I have mentioned are never on the streets?   Well we found one!  Yes we tried to take that bus only route and passed right by a Garda on a motorcycle.  Oops, in moments he was by our side and John, with his window open, said “Hello”.  At that point I think he thought ‘senior citizen and American’, I’ll give him a break.  He proceeded to give us directions which didn't help but we were happy we were not in trouble. 

In the end we wasted about 3 precious hours on this wild goose chase but because we had planned and prepared we still had plenty of time to finish our packing, get a good night’s rest for the trip back to the states.

Our home exchangers arranged a ride to the airport with a family friend and that was so helpful.  We had luggage assistance (much needed) and he actually stuck with us till we went through security.  One of the really cool things in the Dublin airport is that you can go through US customs there eliminating going through it once stateside.

We honestly declared what we were bringing home and were prepared to pay the minimal duty required but we were not required.

And so we came to an end of this magical place with Soda Bread that everyone should have a chance to taste, Black Pudding and Haggis maybe not so much.   Fish of all sorts and then there was the Sticky Pudding!   The beautiful people whose kindness has not been surpassed in our travels.

We started blogging our travel experiences for our own benefit to help us in those days to come when we may not be able to travel and may get joy from just reading and remembering our adventures.   It has evolved from a log or accounting of the where and what we did to the experiences we had.  We know we have friends that tell us they enjoy reading our crazy adventures and to those we say as they say in Scotland "Haste ye back" see you next year on another adventure…..God willing!