Friday, July 5, 2013

Leaving West Coast behind and returning to Dublin

July 4 2013 Dublin:  There is something to be said for a simple road trip and when that road trip happens to be across Ireland there is quite a lot to be said.  We left our lovely Killarney yesterday headed back to our home in Dublin but we decided to go across the south part of the country and then north versus diagonal which of course would have been shorter and quicker.  But this is vacation after all and we are in no hurry with nothing but adventures waiting for us.

Our first stop this day was Muckross House just outside Killarney in yet another National Park within a few miles of the one we toured via jaunty yesterday.  Sadly, because we were on our way out of town we didn't have time to tour the lovely mansion but the gardens and grounds were spectacular.   After a quick stop in their craft center we were back on the rode to Cork.

Our main focus in Cork was a stop at the University College Cork (UCC) and then on to the Blarney Castle.   Lovely old castle, grounds and gardens and even the remains were huge so we can only imagine what the original structure may have been.   No, we did not kiss the Blarney stone.  For a couple of reasons first we heard it was quite the touristy attraction, which we avoid whenever possible.  The main reason, however, is that you climb to the castles peak and then hang backwards from the ledge while someone holds onto you....you place your lips on the stone and up you come.   Didn't sound that easy to us and we figured that if we appeared and said that was our plan we likely would have been told "Oh heck no!"  And so we were forced to go on our way without the gift of blarney.






As we headed east we contemplated stopping off in Waterford (as in the crystal)or Wexford and after some Frommer research we quickly decided on Wexford for dinner.  Not only that, the guide mentioned a Ferry route over a tiny inlet that would save a half hour on our drive.  And so to the ferry we went.  It was so short I think they just untied the rope and gave a good push and we were on the other side!  Wexford is a smaller fishing village of maybe 10,000 people with a great little downtown area near the water so we just parked and found a great spot.   It seems we always find a new interesting place and this one was no different.

This brings me to a story about my observation of the women of Ireland.   It seems everywhere we have been there has been multiple 'Hen' parties going on.  On this stop I was finding my way to the restroom which was upstairs through an art gallery and the place was full of women all decked out drinking wine and gabbing (I mean visiting).   Turns out it was a women's pampering night.  I was reminded of my group of friends and our once a month Save Our Restaurants (SOR) which is our excuse to get together for wine, food and lots of visiting.   Of course I know this is a generalization and I know there are a lot of women here in Ireland that would be hard pressed for a girls night out but it was fun to observe nevertheless.

Funny how it is with an exchange situation.  When we arrived 'home', and that is what it felt like after hotels, it was that same feeling you get when you are really at home.   And so today was a lovely day here in Sandycove County Dublin.  The sun was shining although the wind constantly whipped my clothes off the clothes line I enjoyed do battle with it.   Today was a housekeeping day and one of the delightful benefits of having a home exchange.  Eventually we walked down the street in our little village to the post office and just investigated some shops.  We even enjoy going into the Chemist (drug store)in other countries.  I know this is a big shock but eventually we found our way into a unique little wine shop with a tiny 30 seat bistro in the back for wine/cheese and coffee and desserts.  And eventually of course we were joined by a local gentlemen, John, and had the pleasure of spending a half hour visiting with him.

Our house is one block up from the sea so this evening we walked the sea hoping to see the famous 40 Footer.  It was really hard to see what they are all talking about but we did see a piece of beach that could have been 40 feet and we heard the water was 40 feet deep.  No one seems to know 'why' it is called that but it is famous and loved by the locals.   It was about 65 degrees and very windy and I was shocked to see people swimming in that water.   Our new acquaintance from the wine bar said it is "a bit brisk but refreshing."   The view was lovely!  With the wind had the bay was full of sail boats and believe me they were sailing!




As we came up from the sea we had to stop at a little store down the block and on a real whim we  asked did they just happen to have ice for sale.   We have been ice deprived (literally)since we arrived in Ireland!   The shopkeeper said no he was so very sorry but he said , "Here I'll give you a plastic bag, take it to the pub and ask them for some ice I have heard they will do that."   And so, in sheer desperation, we went to Fitzgerald s, where we had had lunch, with our little plastic bag and sure enough without a blink of an eye we were on our way with a bag full of ice no charge no doubt adding to the local lore of the crazy Americans and their obsession with ice.

I am going to close this evening with a few random observations that we have made as we have been here in Ireland for 1-1/2 weeks.   When on the roadways and travelling between 500-600 miles we have not seen one Garda (police).   There are cameras along the freeway and even on smaller lanes in the foliage where they are unseen (our TomTom picked them up).  Our driver told us they used to have the Garda on the roads but it didn't work out financially thus the cameras.  We learned that a large percentage of the Irish no longer practice their faith.  Just as we were told in Norway and in France they baptize and confirm and marry but week to week they don't worship.  We continue to marvel how thin the majority of the folks are and yet there is potatoes on the table for every meal.  We have seen an entree on a bed of mashed potatoes with a side of potatoes and vegetables!  And then there is the soda bread on the table for every meal as well.  By the way it is delicious!  Oh and many gluten free, celiac or adaptable recipes in all restaurants, far more than in the states.

The speed of walking may explain the potatoes and bread.   We have mentioned this in past entries but it bares repeating.   It is so very noticeable from the moment you hit the street.  Today we stepped out of our house onto the walkway and I had to chuckle because up ahead was an elderly man with a long winter coat on,obviously unbuttoned and as he walked the sides of the coat were just flying to his sides and with his speed it looked like brown tweed wings.  

Despite their difficult history and most recent recession, which they are still struggling their way out of, it seems their culture exemplifies a spirit of kindness, joy, and generosity.  I was touched today by a Public Service Announcement talking in general about how we all are in tough times and yet think about those who are in even tougher situations.  The spot showed elderly, sick, children, poor and then encouraged everyone, no matter their income, to contribute 1% to help someone who was less fortune.  The announcement was not for one particular cause it was simply to remind people to look out for each other.  We were very touched by that and thought how wonderful that would be if we did that in the States.  We also notice the way people treat each other in shops, hotel, pubs and restaurants.  We hear "Tanks a million....tank you...tank you!" everywhere on the streets.  Today John stepped aside for someone coming up behind him walking, and as she whizzed by she nodded with a "Tanks a million..." and she was gone!

I will close tonight with a funny story from the wine bar this evening.   I went into the restroom and there was a tiny little sink and it was just above my knee level.   I hadn't seen anything quite like that but have gotten somewhat used to strange things in bathrooms in different countries.  When I came out I shared my 'bathroom story' with John suggesting perhaps it was designed for Leprechauns.  This was my first glass of wine.  I later found out I was in a handicap restroom!

It is time for me to close, we have come near to the beautiful twilight hour here that we don't really get in California so I will sign off and enjoy it.

Happy 4th of July to all.  God Bless America!










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